Named for a university that once stood here, Daehangno ('University Street') is the beating heart of Korean theatre — dozens of small playhouses, buskers around Marronnier Park and cheap student cafés fill the blocks by Hyehwa Station. Climb east to Naksan Park and the Ihwa Mural Village for city-wall walks and skyline sunsets, or drop south to the quiet gardens of Changgyeonggung. It's youthful, arty and refreshingly untouristy.