Gwangjang Market

One of Korea's oldest markets, Gwangjang is a clattering, steamy hall of food stalls famous for mung-bean bindaetteok fried to order, mayak ('addictive') gimbap, raw beef yukhoe and live octopus. Pull up a plastic stool at a counter, point at what looks good, and eat shoulder-to-shoulder with locals. Come hungry and bring cash.